#1 CURTIS Voltmeter Gas Gauge so to speak with a Audible Alarm
#2 PB-6 Potbox Connects to gas pedal #3 Quick Disconnect #4 8-Amp Vacuum Pump #5 Vacuum Manifold, Gauge and Regulator

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#1 CURTIS Primary, Secondary and 12 Volt Contactors and some Heat Shrink Tube with Sealant
#2 A Couple of Rolls Of Wire For Onboard Wiring
#3 2 Rolls of 50 Foot 2/0 1330 Strand Copper Wire for High Voltage
#4 Another View of the Primary and Secondary Contactors
#5 Another View of the 12 Volt Contactor

I had the wire marked for 144 Volts Dc bot for now it will run at 120 Volts until I can afford another bigger battery charger, maybe I don't need the extra battery power for more distance only time will tell. and I will be able to recoup some of the cost by selling the old one.

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I talked to Bob Batsun of EV America and we decided to go with a 144 volt system I only have a charger that will charge to 108 volts and I needed a step up transformer to do the extra work and charge the batteries correctly. With the change to 120 volts I had to buy the transformer anaways so it only made sense to go with the 144 volt system it calls for 12 12 volt batteries to make the 144 volts only 2 more than the 10 I needed to do the 120 volt system, it will give me more distance at less cost oer mile. I called KTA the maker of the charger I bought and they told me Signal Transformers made the needed transformer for my progect, I talked to Ken there. Ken also fixed me up with the wiring diagram I needed to make it work, I never thought you could make a 120 volt ac system put out 144 volts, they can make majic happen in the electrical world!!!!!!!!

I started cutting out the battery box in the back end of the Saturn, I took out the spare tire and cut it out I have just enough room for eight of the 12 batteries there the other four go in the front with the motor and trans.

I ordered custom springs for the rear struts with Bob"s guidance as to where to go to get them, for the added weight in the rear. It will ride like our Mustang, stiff, but handle the extra weight.

I have to see about the front strut springs if they will need to be replaced or not, I think the end weight will be about the same, or close to what it was before I started removing things. When I take it in for it"s allignment I will know for sure.

The spare might fit on the firewall in the front or under the motor. I have to work it out still.

I have all major components except the batteries now and the cast came off Wednesday. I have a little work to do before I can devote my time to the electric car (there is another car on the hoist), but I am itching to get going on it. Maybe this weekend I will be back on it. I will post more pics tomorrow.

I cut out the area where the spare tire went and am using it for my battery compartment there will be 8 batteries back there. weighing 82 lbs each. I thought the frame needed reinforcing so I cut the rear from another sc2 off and salvaged the frame from it. I cut the exess metal from it turned it upside down and am in the process of welding it to the car frame. The mesh is for the bottom and will be welded to the frame also with a steel floor for the batteries. The first two pics are of the donor car, there wasn't much left of it the rest is going to the scrap yard. The third picture is of the frame before I cleaned it of excess metal. The fourth picture is of the wire mesh it was a parts rack that was laying around. Ane the fifth pic is of the trunk with the spare tire well cut out.

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The first 2 pictures are of the mesh sitting in position, I have not welded it in yet. the third pic is from underneath with the frame sitting in position, and the last picture is from the top sith the frame sitting in position, All I need to do is weld it in.

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This is fascinating. Keep going!

I hit a snag yesterday, I planned to put four of the batteries up front I had just sized the area up by eyeballing it and a few rudimentary measurements. I felt confident they would fit until I mocked the batteries with cardboard boxes. They wouldn't fit I can only put two of thoose monsters there. So I started looking for spots to put the other two and came up with the trunk area again. I have to build two sliding trays to sit on top of the extra frame that is being welded in and they will slide forward for servicing with the rear seats down.
I welded the front tray together this morning and it looks good. I will weld it to the frame in the morning as I am out of argon gas for my mig welder and the arc welder would just make holes. I might have to eliminate the rear seat as I have lots of things to place and not much room to do it. I hope to be driving the car by the end of the month.
I need a Flux capicator and a Mr Fusion container for the trunk and some time circuts. LOL

Bob and I talked and he said the idea about the sliding trays wasn't a good one. I decided to put them over the motor on the left side of the engine compartment. I welded the tray together and it looked possible. That is until I installed the motor. LOL The motor raised the tray up too high. While I was pondering this and making a motor mount my son came home. He made a few smart comments which put me in a mood, so I said you figure it out. He went throuugh the process that I went through and I had to explain why every way he came up with wouldn't work, it is amazing how our minds work alike. then he had a brilliant idea. A new tray that would fit three batteries on the firewall one at a 90 degree angle, and the fourth up front and lower than the other three. We mocked it up and it worked perfictly. Later I will weld it together and bolt it in. The frome is 50% welded in in the rear.

I worked on the tray all yesterday, welded it together and fitted it, I showed my wife as proud as could be and tried to get the lower mock battery in and it wouldn't fit. I have to cut the tray apart and the lower one has to be bolted to the top tray, so I can install it before I put the top tray in. If I ever get theese trays figured out and installed I think the rest will be easier.

#1 is do the clutch after machining, #2 is the reverse side of the clutch and the allignment tool, #3 is the plate to bolt to the motor and trans, this is the trans side, #4 the reverse side of the plate the motor side. #5 Motor, clutch and plate bolted together and ready for installatation. notice the allignment tool in place to line things up it easily slid out for bolting to the tranny

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